| Elafonissi - South Crete Tour |
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ROUTE DESCRIPTION
Starting point is the ancient Venetian district town of Chania. Following the northern coastal highway, west, through the suburban areas, passing Thodorou island, one reaches the peninsula Rodopou. After crossing Rodopou one descends towards the Golf of Kissamos or Kastelli. The distant views towards the west are framed by the other, shorter peninsula Gramvousa, which is at the same time "Lands End" of the island of Crete. Just about halfway towards Kastelli, one leaves the coast road in order to turn inland towards Topolia and the Topolia gorge. This gorge itself is worth the trip, since the spectacular and awe inspiring vistas of the canyon are breathtaking. The small road edges precariously along the northern side of the Gorge and reaches a Paleolithic cave, after passinga narrow one-lane tunnel (there are just 2 tunnels on the island, the other one is situated in the east part).
There will be an opportunity to visit the Agia Sophia cave, which is perched some way up (about 260 steps) the mountain, dug into the rockface. The walk up is highly recommended, to learn and see for oneself the unique geological display of stalagmites and stalactites. The chapel inside the cave is dedicated to the Holy Sophia. There is a small cafeteria where the guests have the opportunity for a refreshment or a breakfast. The trip is continued via the mountain village of Elos, the highest point of the trip (570 m), famous for its chestnut trees. Just after that, a pass of about 800 m gives one access to the West Coast of Crete. Starting our descent one catches the first glimpses of the Mediterranean Sea.
Down at the coast, perched on a rock is the famous and revered "Monastery of the Golden Step", Chrissoskafitissa. There will be time to visit this unique religious site, a place of pilgrimage, and devotion for locals and visitors from all over Greece. Dedicated to the Holy Virgin Mary, the highlight is a 1000 year old Icon of the Mother of Jesus. Miracles have been reported from this place. Now, there are only about 6 km left (from Chania 80 km) and the highway leads directly to the island, across the coastal plain, strutted with greenhouses and olivegroves. We have reached the southernmost point of Europe! Nearly.
AGIA SOFIA It is a little church inside of a cave, m high. There are about 260 steps going up. It is said that this cave - with its stalagmites and stalactites - is one of the most beautiful caves in Crete. They found also fragments from the stone age. Ancient remains have been found in the cave dating as far back as the Neolithic era. The path to the cave is well kept, cobblestoned, and at times rather steep and one needs about 10 min. to go up. People with heart problems should be carefully! Precaution in the cave, it might be wet and slippery!
CHRISSOSKALITISSA The monastery belongs to the diocese of Kissamos and Selinos, the bishop resides in Kastelli. It is difficult to reconstruct the history exactly, cause the monastery was destroyed many times and therefore few historical documents remain. Long ago the cliff of the m. served as a refuge for shipwrecked travelers. In the middle ages (1210-1645 there were supposedly many cloisters in the surrounding area that were destroyed probably becausen of their participation in the many uprisings against the Venetian Rulers. It is said, that before the beginning of numerous Turkish invasions in 1645, the cloister was very wealthy. The Patriarch of Constantinople sold a portion of his estates to pay his taxes due to the Turks. A legend from the early 19th century says that in 1821 a Turkish unit approached the monastery. A wild bee sat on the cliffs at the bottom of the stairs and blocked the way to the inside of the monastery. It was a miracle. Another legend tells that the 90 steps were made of gold. Apparently, the monastery must have been lived in by many monks in the middfe and second half of the 19th century. A story tells that a monk by the name of loannikios (from Kithira) lived on the cliffs. Then the Turks destroyed the monastery establishment once again.
A monk from the wild Cretan countryside of Sfakia gave the cliffs new life. His name was Manassis Slirias. He was called just "Kutsomiti" by the residents of the surrounding villages. The villagers knew to report, that in his youth he had fought with another Sfakiot, who bit off a piece of his nose. In return, Kutsomiti killed him. Then, to escape the "vendetta" (blood revenge) of the other's family, he fled first to a monastery in the Messara Plain and later came to Chrissoskalitissa Soon1 the place was full of life again. Whether the m. was originally for men or for"* women is not made clear in the few remaining historical documents. 1894 a new altar was built in the church and also the "iconostasis" (wall of sacred images) stems from this time. In World War II the m. played a similar role to that of many Cretan cloisters. Sermon paratroopers landed on Crete in May 1941, and the island was militarily occupied by German (and later Italian) troops. They were able at that time to provide shelter for the English and other allied soldiers before they could be brought to Egypt. In June 1943 the German army established a prisoner-of-war camp and a prison (also used for convicted German soldiers) in the rooms of the m. The monks were driven out of their cloister, a procedure which resulted in many causalities. The majority of monks and nuns that lived in the cloister after 1945 have either since died or moved to other m. Only two relatives live here today: the monk and Archimandrite Father Nektarios. They try hard to keep the monastery and grounds well tended and to treat all visitors with a friendly kindness. The monastery is dedicated to the Most Holy Trinity and to the event of the passing away of the Holy Virgin Mary (August 15). In this monastery it is not necessary to cover up knees and shoulders and it is allowed to make pictures (even with flash).
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